SS20: From Design to Online

March 09, 2020By Aarabhi Sivaraman

For the blog this week, I thought I'd talk you through our production process. Basically the steps we take from design to producing a collection. It takes a big team to make each collection and it passes through a lot of hands.

1. Design

It all begins with designing. When I was studying Fashion Design at Istituto Marangoni, we were told to look at trends, or rather what we think will be trends. I probably should follow that but I never really do. I stumble on a topic that I am interested in researching and learning about and then design from there by collecting images and looking for interesting shapes which I can then develop into garments.

Looking at images, I sketch a range of pieces and then try to make full looks.

My main aims when designing are:

a. Mix & matching within the collection

b. Mix & matching with basic pieces in everyone's wardrobe

c. Take you from day to night

d. Easy to wear

I'll use the mannequin to experiment with silhouettes and draping. I'll sketch from these images and develop ideas.

I then take my sketches and add colour and finalise my looks. Each collection is made up of 10 looks and this SS20 collection is 15 individual garments.

Here is my initial beading and embroidery sample, I actually came up with this before anything else in the collection.

2. Pattern Cutting

This is where we take the design from a piece of paper to a well fitting garment. Once the designs are done, I create a tech pack with all the information needed to make that garment including fabric swatches and key measurements. From this point, I start the pattern cutting.

Patterns on paper to get the correct fit

I'll be honest, pattern cutting is not my favourite. I do the pattern cutting by hand but our factory also do some of the patterns because I am very slow! The patterns are all done on paper and what is used to make the initial samples. With this, "toiles" are made which is basically a prototype of the sample. Once the size and fit have been checked, a sample can be made out of the main fabrics.

Our size measurements match with H&M whic means that if you fit a UK size 10 there, you'll fit a UK size 10 here.

One of many toiles made in a basic fabric

3. Sampling

Once the patterns are done, samples are made out of the final chosen fabric with the embellishment too. This is completed by a team at the factory which is based in Delhi. All of our samples are in a UK size 8 because that is the size that fits me. With this, I can then check that the fit is right and make any other necessary adjustments. Once the samples are completed, I then have to decide quantities for production.

This was taken at the lookbook photoshoot, using the samples

Seeing the samples on the model during a shoot is so exciting because it's the first time I get to see an entire look on another person and play with styling.

4. Production

Our production is done in New Delhi, India. We chose to have the collection made in India because when it comes to embellishment, the artisans in India are some of the best in the world. The quality and their attention to detail is hard to find anywhere else. Each bead needs to be placed one by one which takes a lot of patience and skill. Our fabric is made by the factory and all the production takes lace in-house so we know exactly where our garments are made, from beginning to end.

Ethical production is so important to us because we realise the amount of time and skill it takes to make each piece.

Ethical production means:

1. A fair wage

2. A safe working environment

3. No child labour or forced labour

4. No discrimination & gender equality

5. Transparency and accountability

It takes time and skill to make fabrics, cut them and then sew pattern pieces together so it is only right that the level of work is respected by ensuring that ethical production is paramount.

5. Online

Once each piece has been made and checked, it is signed by one of the artisans who worked on it. It takes a team to make each piece because of the many steps involved in production. Once production is completed, the garments are shipped to London and we sell directly to you. This means we aren't following the traditional retail route, making ethically handmade garments more affordable by removing the middle man.